Sonoma - December 2012

Unlike most of the country and contrary to the amateur tourists’ belief, December is a lovely time to visit Sonoma Valley.  The sun still shines, the frost is gone by 9am, and the leaves on the vines are bright reds and oranges against green mountains.  Gone are the tourists of summer and fall, and this oenophile is free to roam at her leisure and get to know some of Sonoma’s gems, with reds on the brain just in time for Christmas! 

I begin my morning on Highway 12 past downtown Sonoma to Gundlach Bundschu, who so kindly accommodated my early arrival due to a lunch reservation, infra.  Cathy is a warm, friendly face who helps me fall into my rhythm here at GB, established in 1858 and currently in its fifth generation of family owners.  Originally hailing from Germany, GB’s signature white is none other than their Gewurztraminer.  The 2011 Riesling-style white is very bright:  with a flowery, citrusy aroma and Sauvignon Blanc-esque pear/lime/fruit finish.  There is even a touch of coriander (author’s admonition:  this detail was told to me, not tasted).  This wine pops in your mouth and is surprisingly fresh.  I move on to their Chardonnay, awarded a 90 point score in Wine Enthusiast and worthy of every point.  GB’s 2010 grape is not your typical full-bodied, buttery Chardonnay that is all-too commonly found in this region:  it is crispy, lighter wine with a mineral-like finish.  Being an enormous fan of said typical full-bodied, buttery Chardonnay, this wine surprised me with its complexity and fresh taste! 

Cathy now has an important job to do, which is to guide me through the broad selection of reds on their tasting menu for the fall.  Despite being somewhat particular on my choice of white wines, my preference for reds range widely (or arbitrarily as the case may be) and I am still in what I consider to be in the learning phase of figuring out what makes me love a red.  As it turns out, GB’s selection makes it a bit difficult to choose, although a couple stood out for me.  I start with their Pinot Noir.  Always a crowd pleaser, but not always my favorite, I take my first whiff with an air of skepticism.  For me, this Pinot’s strongest aromas and flavors are cherries and plums.  It is light, but has a heavy undertone of earthiness whereby you can almost taste the ground from which it came.  Cathy has started this four-bottle red tasting on the right track:  not having much of a palate for cherry, I like the earthy finish of this wine and it is perfect for food.  The next two reds I try share one of my favorite flavors in reds:  tobacco.  Although these next two wines share the dark characteristics of tobacco and chocolate (another plus in my book), they finish quite differently.  The first is a 2010 Tempranillo, with all the rich aromas of cocoa, smoke, and tobacco leaves (I love it!).  This wine is full of tannins and has a Spanish-inspired bite at the end, high in acidity that lingers on the tongue.  The next is a 2010 Zinfandel.  Zinfandels may be my most popular red purchase in Sonoma, and it is one of the region’s strongest grapes, informally crowned the grape of California (although it never became official!).  GB’s Zin is my personal favorite.  It starts out lighter:  with a spicy and floral aroma and finishes with that deep tobacco flavor and, unlike the Tempranillo, a smooth, creamy finish topped with just a touch of pepper that makes this wine melt in your mouth.  It is harvested from 37 year old vines! 

At the perfect time, Gabe enters our conversation.  Hailing from Great Falls, Virginia, Gabe knows a thing or two about Virginia grapes, just in time for my Cabernet Franc tasting.  Cab Francs are a Virginia go-to grape, so I am curious to try a Californian take.  Again, strong chocolate and tobacco tastes (with a hint of nutmeg:  also told to me and not tasted by my own lips).  This Cab Franc does California good.  It is joyfully flavorful wine with a happy, enthusiastic finish.  And finally, Cathy insists on my trying their popular 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon.  This is a big, big red.  Blackberries.  Chocolate.  Graphite.  HUGE.  When I tell them it is not my favorite, Gabe tells me to leave.  I somehow redeem myself (although my strategy now escapes me).  Perhaps the takeaway here is that Cabernet Sauvignons are not my go-to red.  But this one has everything in it you big red drinkers love.  And it is the only one that isn’t a winery exclusive, so order away!! 

Plug:  while I was not able to stay for the cave tour, GB does have barrel tastings inside the cave at their winery and vineyard excursions.  They must be made in advance and for $20 dollars are well worth it.  Hats off to Cathy and Gabe for a great kickoff to my trip this year!  I will certainly see you next time!  And just remember Sonoma Valley Sobriety Test #1: if you can’t say “Gundlach Bundschu Gewerztraminer” you shouldn’t be driving! 

Off to lunch.  The Girl and the Fig is a Sonoma staple, a quaint yellow-walled bistro-esque piece of France right in the heart of downtown Sonoma.  Walking into TGATF feels like you’re walking into a mash-up of the opening scene of Bottleshock and the Napa bar scene where they bet on whether Gustavo Brambila can identify vineyard, grape, and year of bagged up wines and a corner cafe in Paris.  Everyone, I mean everyone, is talking about food and wine.  It is rustic; it is local; and people know their stuff (and most of them look like they know the place pretty well).  It stands out as the predominant (if not only) topic of conversation while I am waiting at the bar for my table and later eavesdropping on other tables while eating at my own. 

I begin with a flight of three California Viogniers, opting for a deviation from my usual Chardonnay indulgence while in wine country, which serves as a palate cleanser for me since today is the day I search for my soulmate of Sonoma reds.  Viognier is nowhere near my area of expertise, nor would I claim to be an enthusiastic fan, but when learning, judgment without knowledge leads to ignorance, and I cannot continue to tout my fancy wine palate without diving right into these little light feathers of wines.  Viogniers are typically floral, sweet, and dry. The first is a 2009 Ojai, from Roll Ranch (CA)  This is a very matted wine:  the aroma is stone-smelling with just a twinge of fruit, tastes not surprisingly like minerals but quite surprisingly like flowers, which lightens up the taste, but it finishes hard and flat.  This wine intrigues me, but the taste leads me to my next option.  Second is a 2011 from the Miner Family (CA)  Somewhat skeptical both in general and based on my experience just moments ago, I am pleasantly surprised by this take on Viognier.  More medium bodied, the nose on this has citrus and smells of sweet honeysuckle, which gives it a vibrant, tropical flavor that appeals to my obsession with Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs, but has a much softer finish.  I love this wine.  There is hope for me yet with the Viognier!  I politely beg for one more pour of this so I can finish off my flight with two more ounces of what I believe to be my favorite.  The third and final Viognier offered is a 2010 Anaba from Sonoma Valley.  The Anaba is a combination of the first two:  it has a softer, floral aroma with a touch of fruit, leading into a big bold tasting wine that is tropical and citrusy yet subtly matted that leads into an expected easy finish given its mineral taste.  I liked it and found it representative of the group I was given for my first Viognier to Viognier comparison.  Stay tuned.  I promise to look more into it, quite possibly in Virginia, a popular wine from the Jefferson days.  

I begin with pastis-scented steamed moules, in a sauce of garlic, leek, and herbs.  They are perfectly salted in a broth with just enough thickness to be eaten alone.  The mussels are plump and fall right out of their shells into this flavorful bowl.  They are gone in minutes, with a small oil stain on the placemat to prove it.  I quietly ask for just one more slice of French bread for dipping and savor every last bite of it!  I move on to my main course, the Croque Monsieur.  Naturally, the big bread in this is brioche, which is drenched in butter and custard and toasted to an oily perfection.  Inside, applewood smoked ham is thinly sliced and amply placed between these perfectly soaked ends after being slathered with St. Jorge cheese, a semi-soft cow's milk from Portugal, and it is absolutely ideal for sandwiches.  Impatient with hunger, my first bite burns my mouth with molten cheese.  Pause.  Water with ice.  Resume.  This sandwich is not good for you.  But it is French.  It’s cheesy.  And butter soaked brioche with the added custard makes it almost like a meat filled pastry.  While TGATF have plenty of options on their menu for more complicated lunch choices, including duck confit and a flounder meuniere, but this simple sandwich took me back to the South of France in an instant, gazing at the cheesemongers in the back as I devoured this lovely Monsieur. 

TGATF is worth returning to again and again, which is why people do it.  Local, with that wine-country energy, you feel like you are in the heart of Sonoma and get a glimpse of what the pace and passion of life is like for the people that call this place home.  Best of all, it’s affordable, which means you can try two things!  A quick espresso (black), and off I go to continue my quest for the perfect Sonoma red! 

My next stop, highly recommended by wine sources near to and far from Sonoma, is the Muscadini Cellars and Ty Caton Vineyard tasting room on Sonoma Highway.  Many of the grapes here come from the infamous Monterosa Vineyard up the street.  These two Sonoma Valley forces are parting ways at the end of the year due to increased size, but both deliver on big flavored reds.  I skip the one white tasting on the menu, a 2010 MC Pinot Grigio, since this tasting menu has nothing to do with reds and I want little to do with Pinot Grigio.  I start out first with Ty’s 2010 Big Red.  This blend is an even split of Syrah and Merlot with a smidgen of Petit Syrah.  It is lighter than many of the heavy hitters described infra., but has strong berry aromas with a long finish.   I like it.  I don’t love it, but it is a good launch pad.  Next up is a 2010 Barbera, one of my favorite grapes.  Most recently a 2012 Gold Medal Winner in the LA International Wine Competition, this Barbera is strong.  It’s fruity and bold, with a crisp finish that lingers with a unique spice.  The big taste comes from rasberries and a tinge of coffee. Next up is Muscardini’s 2009 Madrone Ridge Zinfandel.  Another strong Zin from California, this wine lightens it up with small tannins and the slightest pepper flavor.  Spicy, this wine is perfect for the holidays!  I move on to The Barracks, a 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon that is quite powerful.  Only 60 cases were produced this year, which is up from the 45 of the 2009.   100% Cab, this is what Muscardini and Ty do best.  Big, full-bodied, full flavored, and long-finishing.  Next up is the 2010 Racnhino Salina Claret.  Claret is one of my favorite wines, hailing from Bordeaux.  It is dry, very dark, and heavy.  Finally, the big winner:  the 2010 Estate Tytanium.  This 2010 follows in the footsteps of four straight years of award-winning barrels, including being voted the “Best of the Best vie Red Blends in California” by the Quarterly Review of Wines.  Tytanium is HUGE and covers all the big bases of grapes:  Syrah, Petit Syrah, Cabernet, Malbec and just a touch (1%) of Merlot.  At $80/bottle, Tytanium can be a bit steep, especially given the less expensive reds offered by Muscardini and Ty.  It is well-worth the taste, but you can easily take home worthy wines by these two at $50. 

Thanks to a secret Livermore National Laboratory insider, I discover that my favorite California Pinot Noir maker now has a tasting room right on Sonoma Highway.  Getting his start in a small tasting room at Tenuta Vineyards in Livermore Valley, Csaba Szakal  is a one-man show producing a big time selection at En Garde.  The 2008 Pinot Noir is my favorite.  Having “accidentally” opened bottles of the ’08 at home, I was in desperate need of replenishment so Czaba’s tasting room in Sonoma was a more-than-pleasant surprise!  Jen cheerfully welcomed me into their very own tasting room, and, after a bit of gushing, we dove right in to this great Russian River Valley winemaker’s best.  Csaba does not disappoint.  It is wines like those under the subtle En Garde label that make wine country worth visiting.  While I remain committed to pursuing great reds, I did not have to go far to find my top one – and cheers to Jen for taking the time to talk with me; she is a great stop on your Sonoma Valley experience!

MR takes me out for a great birthday dinner in Santa Rosa.  Mom of a 14-month old with a baby on the way, she stepped it up for me on my big day after relaxing pedicures to a great dinner at Monti’s Rotisserie in Santa Rosa.  Monti’s is classic and cozy, and we nuzzle up to the fire to catch up without the boys and indulge in some pregnant-lady safe bleu cheese and gossip.  To kick things off, I order a glass of my (our) favorite Brut Rose from J vineyards.  It’s time to celebrate!  Melissa orders a fresh baby lettuces salad with walnuts, apple slices, and yes, pasteurized, baby-ok’d bleu cheese.  I opt for a great alternative to a Caesar salad:  hearts of romaine with Parmesan dressing.  The salad is great because the dressing is lighter than a normal Caesar and lacks the hint of anchovies that is all too common in this classic salad’s dressing.  Fresher than fresh crutons and ground black pepper make this a perfectly flavored and weighted salad.  For dinner, Melissa has a beautiful roasted chicken over cannellini beans and spinach, cooked rotisserie style with not a drop too little of moisture inside its crispy skin.  I opt for the tuna tartare – mixed with avocado and cucumber with homemade crostinis.  The menu has a lot to offer at Monti’s – there is one of everything and made with the best ingredients California can find without getting into the stylish details of being grass-fed, home-grown, or too sustainable for East Coast city folk to digest.  Combined with an intimate bar and festive Christmas decorations (ornaments made to look like chile ristras!), Monti’s was a perfect place to settle into my next year of life with one of my best friends in the world. 

As many of you know, this is not my first, nor will it be my last, trip to California wine country.  It is truly one of my favorite places in the country to visit, and I am so lucky to have such wonderful and welcoming friends to guide me on my way.  MR and DR (and baby K!), thank you for another beautiful weekend and I can’t wait for my next trip there! 

Cheers! 

Charleston - June 2012

Charleston has been high on my domestic travel bucket list for years.  While PB's departure from the Jean Georges enterprise covering the streets of New York and the world was a sad loss for this NY foodie, it was a gained opportunity with a position landed at Sean Brock's McCrady's Restaurant.  Charleston is rapidly up and coming in the culinary world, with a young food and beverage industry chomping at the bit to be the next big thing.  Now the home of my bestie PB, it was time to get serious about Charleston. 

As far as being accommodated, I was lucky enough to have my own private garden apartment (courtesy of AH - and check out her amazing premiere food culture blog on all things southern and edible on www.thelocalpalate.com) on Rainbow Row, a historic set of townhouses on Broad Street if you're heading down East Bay to the picturesque battery.  This lovely apartment across the street from the park, came complete with a bottle of Taittinger and all the hair products I could ever want to use for a humid summer's day in South Carolina.  Thus, alas, I remain naive to the boasted best boarding in Charleston, and defer to my CofC alumni friends and natives to comment. 

Phil and I begin my Charleston culinary adventure at Cru Cafe, a lovely, charming lunch spot on Pinckney Street, for a light lunch.  I choose a refreshing cup of melon soup and a half open-faced turkey sandwich with brie and honey mustard, coupled with a glass of 2008 NO Chardonnay.  Cru Cafe's menu is light, simple, and done right.  It has a small dining area reminiscent of someone's living room, but the porch is open and facing the street - a perfect place to enjoy a snack and take it slow, and of course one of the cliche Southerners' favorite pastimes, people watching and gossip. 

I venture over to Vendue Inn - a Charleston staple and highly recommended roofdeck.  The roofdeck (both levels) of Vendue has plenty of shade, ample seating, and one hell of a Moscow Mule.  It is perfect for late afternoon, pre-dinner cocktails, or post-brunch on a Sunday (I brought back PB to sit on outdoor plushy couches and watch golf) - so basically anytime.  It has a great view of the Harbor and represents many things Charleston.  It offers live music most days of the week that is guest friendly (Sunday we enjoyed a typical guy-with-a-guitar-playing-Meet-Virginia-covers that was just perfect) and a welcoming staff that is polite and attentive.  Overdramatic kudos are not needed - Vendue is one of Charleston's go-to's. 

At last - what I have been waiting for:  dinner at McCrady's with none other than PB in the kitchen.  From the second I walked in, I loved McCrady's.  Its old wood interior makes you feel you are in a modern log cabin, and the lighting is just perfect.  The staff slam dunks any and all first impressions you may have and may actually make the food and wine taste better (so thank you to JB, TL, and CM for a picture perfect trio of bartending, waiting, and sommelier-ing!  Another shameless plug:  newest breakfast food truck in Charleston born of McCrady's best, Outta My Juevos - check it out!).  My dinner companion WH and I ease into McCrady's with a specialty cocktail made by bartender TL, who concocted a creative, refreshing vodka-based drink for me based on my one request (vodka) and garnished it with herbs so fresh it came as no surprise they had been grown on the roof of McCrady's in Sean Brock's roofdeck garden.  We are shuffled away to our table, where JB, our sommelier, approaches me, asks me if I am Florie, and reports that wine suggestions have been made based on PB's report on my wine preferences prior to my arrival.  We begin with a Cabernet Franc sparkling Rose from the Loire Valley that is tart with fruity aromas, and perfect with appetizers.  I chose the Masami Rancy Wagyu Beef Tartare, which was garnished with a perfect egg yolk and walnuts.  My chicken complete with roasted mushrooms and apricot and heirloom garlic, came cooked to perfection with impeccable presentation, and was paired with a 2011 South African Chenin Blanc from the West Cape that was tropical and acidic, making it complementary to the flatter flavors of mushrooms.  After dinner, I am given an artisinal cheese plate paired with a French Chenin Blanc (again from the Loire Valley) chosen by WH that was sweeter, lighter, and enhanced the flavor of each cheese.  Finally, a lavish presentation of desserts come out, courtesy of McCrady's fantastic pastry chef.  My personal favorite was a plum dish - with different treats all made with plum used in a different style - and it popped in my mouth with the help of a sparkling Moscato making the end of our meal rich with deep fruit flavor.  CM put up with us the entire time through everything with her light yet professional service and enthusiastic knowledge of the menu.  We had a great time! 

McCrady's does a lot of things (if not, everything) right.  Sean Brock's food speaks for itself, and I especially loved his theme of putting several variations of the same ingredient on the same plate, but in addition the presentation is disciplined and perfect every time, and the front of the house won me over from start to finish.  We even got a tour of the kitchen courtesy of PB!  Surely, one of the best meals I have had in a couple of years. 

While we are waiting for PB to finish up, WH and I stroll down to the Blind Tiger, a large bar with a big patio that was described pre-arrival as being similar to Smith Point in Georgetown, which it is.  The Blind Tiger is drinks in plastic cups, chairs with no cushions, smoky, and loud.  I like it immediately, and WH and I find a table in the back patio and digest our meal over less complicated clear cocktails in plastic glasses and more informal conversation.  The Blind Tiger is a great let loose bar that was perfectly packed for a Wednesday night (although if it bears too much semblance to SP, I'd avoid it on the weekends...). 

Day trip:  Sullivan's Island.  Beaches in Charleston are a perfectly distanced short trip from the historic downtown.  PB and I set up camp (and my satellite office) with two issues of Vanity Fair (and a whole lot of sunscreen) and talk Charleston until we get hot and hungry.  Off to Poe's, a popular Sullivan's Island (and Charlestoner favorite) burger place with good fries and great beers.  We opt for juicy burgers with avocado and pico de gallo and big pints of Guinness (good for any climate, really).  The bar is packed and a far cry from fancy, but Poe called it home and for the afternoon so did we.

As an interlude to the evening to come, PB and I stop by Goat. Sheep. Cow. to indulge in a few of our favorite things:  cheese, wine, and truffle oil.   Goat. Sheep. Cow on Church Street is a hidden gem of meats, cheeses, wines, and oils/tapenades.  Its quaint patio is perfect for summer wine tasting and a quick snack, and the folks at GSC are happy to have you sample every slice of meat and cheese they have in their store.  Their staff is friendly and knowledgeable, and we managed to get out reasonably priced with a couple of bottles of rose and a variety of spanish and french cheese.  Their wines are carefully selected, ranging from the super inexpensive to the special occasion bottle, and their helpful attitude makes you want to make this place your go-to for life.  And now...to relax on East Bay. 

Dinner comes at F.I.G.. - a small plates bar in a small space on Meeting Street.  Small plates are a plus at this establishment, since the menu possibilities are endless.  Come hungry, however.  F.I.G's menu is not light and in making decisions, I recommend erring on the side of overeating.  PB and I share a variety of selections from their summer menu, including gnocchi, bone marrow, and beef tartare, paired with a fabulous 2009 Carigan/Grenache/Petit Sirah from Monterey called LIOCO (a must-have at all times in your wine collection).  Reservations are highly recommended here...sitting at the bar works well for PB and me, who like to talk food with servers, but there are not many tables here.  If you do not feel like waiting and do feel like random conversation, F.I.G. offers a family table where singles, couples, and groups can sit - table company at your own risk. 

Charleston nightlife is ample, energetic, and easy.  There are dozens of bars to choose from, each more different than the last.  Loungy is not on the agenda here, but you can go from upscale cocktails to fratty dive bars in a matter of meters. 

We begin at Squeeze.  Squeeze is long, narrow, and colorful, with an equally bright cocktail menu.  The possibilities are endless on drinks, and I order a refreshing, lemony vodka drink with a bite and impeccable garnish.  The bartenders at Squeeze are happy to get to know you despite the bar being packed full of thirsty Charleston youngsters.  While conversation with your company can be difficult, Squeeze is a great place to start off the night and set the energy level for the evening.  We love Squeeze!

Next, Closed for Business on King Street.  Beer flights.  Perhaps a shot of whiskey.  Closed for Business is hip and laid back, with 42 beers on tap and long community tables made for sharing.  I opt for two separate flights of beer to sample the options to my liking.  Entertained by two of Salisbury's finest, Closed for Business is a great way to let loose and get loose, all while still being able to hear your friends speak.  We recommend it with a side of a Lt. Commander in the Navy - a perfect addition to any big night out. 

No trip to visit PB would be complete without a climb up the stairs to our favorite type of place to drink beers:  the roofdeck.  Henry's House on King Street suffices (coming in at a close second to our days at our old apartment building in Washington...shirts and shoes required here at Henry's though).  The roofdeck at Henry's is loud, rowdy, and perfect for rapid consumption of Miller Lite.  We have grown in momentum and size, and Henry's only feeds our adrenaline with good music and cold beers.  Be prepared to wait in an ever so slight line...we weren't the only ones who thought this idea was awesome. 

We end the night at the Griffon, across the Vendue Inn and reminiscent of a London pub, but warmer.  The dirty walls are covered in dollar bills and within them there is a loud cover band, sweaty patrons, and authentically poured Guinness.  At this point, we are thirsty, ready to dance and hot, so the Griffon is the perfect place to culminate, take a shot, and I say goodnight to my new amazing friends in Charleston.  Thank you all so much!
Postscript:  Social.  My last evening in Charleston, exhausted from a weekend of doing my favorite things with my favorite person to do them with, we settle one last time into Social for a small snack and a large glass of wine.  Social's menu is simple, pleasing, and well complimented by its wine list.  PB and I enjoy a Salsiccia pizza (carmelized onion, pork sausage, and broccoli rabe) with a smooth bottle of Cotes du Rhone to top off a fantastic few days.  Social is dark, relaxing, and comfortable - with rich food and heavy wines to boot! 

For me, Charleston was best done with F&B as the overarching theme.  It is an enormous part of the city's culture, and I could not have been more lucky to have one of my best friends (who is all too familiar with my palate) be the ultimate tour guide!  This entry does not do Charleston justice; there is much more to offer.  Now I know what people are talking about, and I look forward to my next trip down!  Thanks, PB - expectations met, blown by, and exceeded. 



Cheers! 

Sydney - May 2012

Nothing in my experience thus far quite compares to Sydney.  The food is modern and creative, the nightlife is expansive, and it is the only time I have walked in the ocean (comfortably) while wearing a Barbour jacket.  Australian people are fun, friendly, and refreshingly fond of Americans.  Each day seemed to top the last, although my travel companion (RG) on this trip and I agreed that the first night we were there may have been quite possibly the best night of our lives (discussed in more detail below). 

We stayed at the Shangri-La hotel in the Rocks, overlooking the Sydney Harbor.  For those of you who have traveled in Asia, you are undoubtedly familiar with this chain of hotels, and as many an American will argue, luxury Asian hotels are hard to beat.  The Shangri-La in Sydney is worth a visit even if not as a hotel guest.  The Blu Bar on the 36th floor of the hotel has dazzling views of the Harbor and overpriced fancy cocktails (worth it).  Get there early, though, the prime seats here fill up fast.  If you are feeling super-touristy like we were, you can enjoy seasonal mixology treats, such as a blinking rum cocktail in honor of the Vivid festival, taking place during our visit. 

Night one.  We begin at Pony, a fun, New Australian cuisine restaurant with awesome lighting and a good balcony.  The food is fresh, creative, and reminiscent of many new, trendy American restaurants.  There is no shortage of wine here, and hats off to the Pony management for stemware selection, but oenophiles beware:  the Aussies do not import much, so be prepared to get educated on Shiraz and save your Chianti wine teeth for another time. 

Next stop is the Argyle, a fun, funky bar with creative cocktails and loud music.  Down an alley and through a dimly lit patio, we arrive through the doors of this enormous space.  Cocktails abound, RG and I opt for pitchers of a fruity, sticky concoction that goes down all too quickly.  The mixologists are knowledgeable and very precise (read:  measured pours).  We were not exactly sure what we were drinking, but the big beats and cool cocktails were good lubrication for a night out on George Street. 

Venturing down George Street in The Rocks, we stumble upon The Establishment, one of many restaurants/bars of Australia's Merivale Group.  Walking into The Establishment can be intimidating given the large men in neon vests standing outside bouncing and warnings of a (nonexistent) dress code, but on the inside they are sweet and will take your picture if you are polite. Inside:  high ceilings, gigantic chandeliers, a goes-on-forever marble bar, and stiff gin and tonics.  The Establishment is elegant, full of beautiful people and decent behavior (our dive bar experiences were not worth reporting in Australia...they lack the charm of establishments in small New England towns), and a great way to set the tone for the rest of George Street. 

Finally, The Ivy.  Another Merivale Group venue, the Ivy is hands down the best bar I have been to in my entire life, and I am not being dramatic since it was recently voted as the Best Bar in Australia by Australian Travelers Readers Choice (and Austrlia is quite possibly up there as the best country I have been to).  Walking into the patio area, RG and I stopped at a long, canopied bar for a cocktail.  Everyone is more beautiful here and having more fun than anywhere else.  We stash our jackets underneath the stage and join these lovely Australians for an American top 40 dance party, and it is here we discover that Australians are in fact enormous fans of America and we quickly make friends with everyone around us (at this point we were in a very friendly mood).  Despite it being fall in Australia, it is still warm enough to enjoy the Ivy patio at night and dance under the stars.  Suddenly, the sky opens up and it starts pouring rain down onto the crowd, which instead of causing people to seek shelter, only excites the group even more, and adrenaline keeps us dancing through the storm.  After the excitement is all over, we retreat to the wicker chairs and lounge until it is time to leave.  Direct quote:  RG:  "I felt like a movie star tonight."  Not too many places can make you feel that way!  Three months later, we still longingly mention it on a weekly basis, since Thursday nights anywhere in the world have yet to compare. 

Day trip:  Manly Beach.  Manly is a quick ride across the harbor and a great way to see the incredible Opera House and the Sydney Harbour Bridge with good photo ops.  We headed to Manly in the morning and went straight to the ocean, where the water was warm enough to swim in, even in late fall for Australia.  We then stumbled upon Hemingway's - a beachfront bar with a elaborate cocktail menu reminiscent of the famous author's interesting life and era
, as well as a wide selection of microbrew beers from around Australia.  It is not the best place in Manly Beach to go for food, but Hemingway wasn't known for his taste in food, now was he.  It was a perfect place to grab a casual lunch and sit by the beach - and is a bit off the beaten path from the other seafood restaurants on the Boardwalk. 

While you're waiting for the return ferry and find yourself wanting to stay and watch a sunset or grab one last pint, the Bavarian Bier Cafe located right on Manly Wharf has a wonderfully authentic beer selection, friendly staff, and Hofbrauhaus-size beers.  One of these can certainly maintain you on the (cold) ride back to the Quay! 

Heading out in an attempt to top the night before, we begin with cocktails at Bar 360 in the Sydney Tower.  Overpriced, yes.  Touristy, yes.  Weak menu, yes.  But, with your overpriced glass of wine, you will receive with Bar 360's compliments breathtaking views of Sydney in this rotating bar and restaurant.  RG and I were obliged to go and take a mental snapshot (and some real photos - although they are difficult with the thick glass) of looking down on Sydney from the top of one of its higher buildings. 

Back to George Street into the Ivy complex to Uccello, an upscale Italian restaurant.  NOTE:  making reservations at restaurants in the Rocks, whether you are dining casually at Pony or headed to Quay, is strongly encouraged, especially on a Friday or Saturday night.  Keeping up with our baller night from Thursday, the host at Uccello did not make us wait (despite a full house) more than a minute before a table was brought out, set, and us seated a la Goodfellas.  We were immediately brought champagne, and both my ricotta gnocchi and veal medallions were delicious.  Chef Eugenio Riva does not disappoint with ingredients or presentation, and paired with fantastic front of the house service, both RG and I were very impressed.  After dinner, we retreat to the Pool Club in the back of the restaurant, finally deciding to perch ourselves on a small cement square in the middle of the pool which gives us a 360 degree view of the our sleek surroundings and interesting crowd.  The pool bar has a clean, chill atmosphere, and is a great place for an after dinner drink and a quick lounging session before returning down to George Street for the evening.  Our seats: 

For a more casual and less expensive Italian experience, I recommend Appetito.  We ate there the last night of our trip to Sydney and is authentically Italian (note:  there is a strong Italian population in Sydney) and much less flashy than an Uccello.  It's small, it's loud, but it's classically good. 

Our last day in Sydney required a bit of restraint due to our daunting travel the next day, so we stayed in the harbor and relaxed.  Super touristy, sitting in an eatery at the base of the Opera House after a walk around is lovely and full of options, and if lucky, you can catch a sunset behind the Harbour Bridge on a nice day.  Walking along this stretch of the Harbour is perfect if you're uncertain of your food mood, or want something quick.  You may even run into some Aboriginal didgeridoo players and other interesting friends down here in the heart of Sydney tourism.  Nonetheless, the Opera House is by far the pride of the City despite its dramatic story to the dismay of many Australians, and breathtakingly beautiful from both near and far. 

There are outdoor markets on the weekends in the Rocks, which have everything from jewelry to apparel, to prints to childrens' toys.  While I was busy getting taken advantage of by a New Zealander with unique fabrics, RG found a great side street where you can grab a pint of beer and some quick street food - a staple for shopping and decent enough food on the go.  In the heart of the market you can also find Lowebrau Keller, a sit down bier garden with enormous pints for those of you who have had your fill or, in many a gentleman's case, have grown sick of shopping and waiting. 

We said goodbye to Sydney with one last sunset and a nightcap at Hart's Pub - next to the Shangri-La.  Hart's Pub consists of small bars within a large building - a two story establishment with some of the best craft beers I have had.  The atmosphere is casual and energetic, and RG and I had to resist the urge to follow some Australian friends we made to a nearby karaoke bar (a would-be important entry on this trip and a comparison point to other karaoke establishments my reader will consistently find throughout this blog) - but alas, 24 hours of flights loomed so closely in front of us, we sadly declined.  Hart's Pub is comfortable and perfect for the beer lover - complete with quotes from famous beer drinkers of the past, including RG's favorite, seen in the photo below. 

Bottom line:  this trip upped the ante on future travel.  Thank you to the Australian people for your energetic city and supremely positive outlook on life - it made for an unforgettable experience and great memories!  And hats off to the concierge at the Shangri-La.  We owe you one. 

And the best part?  We're going back next year. 

Cheers!