As far as being accommodated, I was lucky enough to have my own private garden apartment (courtesy of AH - and check out her amazing premiere food culture blog on all things southern and edible on www.thelocalpalate.com) on Rainbow Row, a historic set of townhouses on Broad Street if you're heading down East Bay to the picturesque battery. This lovely apartment across the street from the park, came complete with a bottle of Taittinger and all the hair products I could ever want to use for a humid summer's day in South Carolina. Thus, alas, I remain naive to the boasted best boarding in Charleston, and defer to my CofC alumni friends and natives to comment.
Phil and I begin my Charleston culinary adventure at Cru Cafe, a lovely, charming lunch spot on Pinckney Street, for a light lunch. I choose a refreshing cup of melon soup and a half open-faced turkey sandwich with brie and honey mustard, coupled with a glass of 2008 NO Chardonnay. Cru Cafe's menu is light, simple, and done right. It has a small dining area reminiscent of someone's living room, but the porch is open and facing the street - a perfect place to enjoy a snack and take it slow, and of course one of the cliche Southerners' favorite pastimes, people watching and gossip.
I venture over to Vendue Inn - a Charleston staple and highly recommended roofdeck. The roofdeck (both levels) of Vendue has plenty of shade, ample seating, and one hell of a Moscow Mule. It is perfect for late afternoon, pre-dinner cocktails, or post-brunch on a Sunday (I brought back PB to sit on outdoor plushy couches and watch golf) - so basically anytime. It has a great view of the Harbor and represents many things Charleston. It offers live music most days of the week that is guest friendly (Sunday we enjoyed a typical guy-with-a-guitar-playing-Meet-Virginia-covers that was just perfect) and a welcoming staff that is polite and attentive. Overdramatic kudos are not needed - Vendue is one of Charleston's go-to's.
At last - what I have been waiting for: dinner at McCrady's with none other than PB in the kitchen. From the second I walked in, I loved McCrady's. Its old wood interior makes you feel you are in a modern log cabin, and the lighting is just perfect. The staff slam dunks any and all first impressions you may have and may actually make the food and wine taste better (so thank you to JB, TL, and CM for a picture perfect trio of bartending, waiting, and sommelier-ing! Another shameless plug: newest breakfast food truck in Charleston born of McCrady's best, Outta My Juevos - check it out!). My dinner companion WH and I ease into McCrady's with a specialty cocktail made by bartender TL, who concocted a creative, refreshing vodka-based drink for me based on my one request (vodka) and garnished it with herbs so fresh it came as no surprise they had been grown on the roof of McCrady's in Sean Brock's roofdeck garden. We are shuffled away to our table, where JB, our sommelier, approaches me, asks me if I am Florie, and reports that wine suggestions have been made based on PB's report on my wine preferences prior to my arrival. We begin with a Cabernet Franc sparkling Rose from the Loire Valley that is tart with fruity aromas, and perfect with appetizers. I chose the Masami Rancy Wagyu Beef Tartare, which was garnished with a perfect egg yolk and walnuts. My chicken complete with roasted mushrooms and apricot and heirloom garlic, came cooked to perfection with impeccable presentation, and was paired with a 2011 South African Chenin Blanc from the West Cape that was tropical and acidic, making it complementary to the flatter flavors of mushrooms. After dinner, I am given an artisinal cheese plate paired with a French Chenin Blanc (again from the Loire Valley) chosen by WH that was sweeter, lighter, and enhanced the flavor of each cheese. Finally, a lavish presentation of desserts come out, courtesy of McCrady's fantastic pastry chef. My personal favorite was a plum dish - with different treats all made with plum used in a different style - and it popped in my mouth with the help of a sparkling Moscato making the end of our meal rich with deep fruit flavor. CM put up with us the entire time through everything with her light yet professional service and enthusiastic knowledge of the menu. We had a great time!
McCrady's does a lot of things (if not, everything) right. Sean Brock's food speaks for itself, and I especially loved his theme of putting several variations of the same ingredient on the same plate, but in addition the presentation is disciplined and perfect every time, and the front of the house won me over from start to finish. We even got a tour of the kitchen courtesy of PB! Surely, one of the best meals I have had in a couple of years.
While we are waiting for PB to finish up, WH and I stroll down to the Blind Tiger, a large bar with a big patio that was described pre-arrival as being similar to Smith Point in Georgetown, which it is. The Blind Tiger is drinks in plastic cups, chairs with no cushions, smoky, and loud. I like it immediately, and WH and I find a table in the back patio and digest our meal over less complicated clear cocktails in plastic glasses and more informal conversation. The Blind Tiger is a great let loose bar that was perfectly packed for a Wednesday night (although if it bears too much semblance to SP, I'd avoid it on the weekends...).
Day trip: Sullivan's Island. Beaches in Charleston are a perfectly distanced short trip from the historic downtown. PB and I set up camp (and my satellite office) with two issues of Vanity Fair (and a whole lot of sunscreen) and talk Charleston until we get hot and hungry. Off to Poe's, a popular Sullivan's Island (and Charlestoner favorite) burger place with good fries and great beers. We opt for juicy burgers with avocado and pico de gallo and big pints of Guinness (good for any climate, really). The bar is packed and a far cry from fancy, but Poe called it home and for the afternoon so did we.
As an interlude to the evening to come, PB and I stop by Goat. Sheep. Cow. to indulge in a few of our favorite things: cheese, wine, and truffle oil. Goat. Sheep. Cow on Church Street is a hidden gem of meats, cheeses, wines, and oils/tapenades. Its quaint patio is perfect for summer wine tasting and a quick snack, and the folks at GSC are happy to have you sample every slice of meat and cheese they have in their store. Their staff is friendly and knowledgeable, and we managed to get out reasonably priced with a couple of bottles of rose and a variety of spanish and french cheese. Their wines are carefully selected, ranging from the super inexpensive to the special occasion bottle, and their helpful attitude makes you want to make this place your go-to for life. And now...to relax on East Bay.
Dinner comes at F.I.G.. - a small plates bar in a small space on Meeting Street. Small plates are a plus at this establishment, since the menu possibilities are endless. Come hungry, however. F.I.G's menu is not light and in making decisions, I recommend erring on the side of overeating. PB and I share a variety of selections from their summer menu, including gnocchi, bone marrow, and beef tartare, paired with a fabulous 2009 Carigan/Grenache/Petit Sirah from Monterey called LIOCO (a must-have at all times in your wine collection). Reservations are highly recommended here...sitting at the bar works well for PB and me, who like to talk food with servers, but there are not many tables here. If you do not feel like waiting and do feel like random conversation, F.I.G. offers a family table where singles, couples, and groups can sit - table company at your own risk.
Charleston nightlife is ample, energetic, and easy. There are dozens of bars to choose from, each more different than the last. Loungy is not on the agenda here, but you can go from upscale cocktails to fratty dive bars in a matter of meters.
We begin at Squeeze. Squeeze is long, narrow, and colorful, with an equally bright cocktail menu. The possibilities are endless on drinks, and I order a refreshing, lemony vodka drink with a bite and impeccable garnish. The bartenders at Squeeze are happy to get to know you despite the bar being packed full of thirsty Charleston youngsters. While conversation with your company can be difficult, Squeeze is a great place to start off the night and set the energy level for the evening. We love Squeeze!
Next, Closed for Business on King Street. Beer flights. Perhaps a shot of whiskey. Closed for Business is hip and laid back, with 42 beers on tap and long community tables made for sharing. I opt for two separate flights of beer to sample the options to my liking. Entertained by two of Salisbury's finest, Closed for Business is a great way to let loose and get loose, all while still being able to hear your friends speak. We recommend it with a side of a Lt. Commander in the Navy - a perfect addition to any big night out.
No trip to visit PB would be complete without a climb up the stairs to our favorite type of place to drink beers: the roofdeck. Henry's House on King Street suffices (coming in at a close second to our days at our old apartment building in Washington...shirts and shoes required here at Henry's though). The roofdeck at Henry's is loud, rowdy, and perfect for rapid consumption of Miller Lite. We have grown in momentum and size, and Henry's only feeds our adrenaline with good music and cold beers. Be prepared to wait in an ever so slight line...we weren't the only ones who thought this idea was awesome.
We end the night at the Griffon, across the Vendue Inn and reminiscent of a London pub, but warmer. The dirty walls are covered in dollar bills and within them there is a loud cover band, sweaty patrons, and authentically poured Guinness. At this point, we are thirsty, ready to dance and hot, so the Griffon is the perfect place to culminate, take a shot, and I say goodnight to my new amazing friends in Charleston. Thank you all so much!
Postscript: Social. My last evening in Charleston, exhausted from a weekend of doing my favorite things with my favorite person to do them with, we settle one last time into Social for a small snack and a large glass of wine. Social's menu is simple, pleasing, and well complimented by its wine list. PB and I enjoy a Salsiccia pizza (carmelized onion, pork sausage, and broccoli rabe) with a smooth bottle of Cotes du Rhone to top off a fantastic few days. Social is dark, relaxing, and comfortable - with rich food and heavy wines to boot!
For me, Charleston was best done with F&B as the overarching theme. It is an enormous part of the city's culture, and I could not have been more lucky to have one of my best friends (who is all too familiar with my palate) be the ultimate tour guide! This entry does not do Charleston justice; there is much more to offer. Now I know what people are talking about, and I look forward to my next trip down! Thanks, PB - expectations met, blown by, and exceeded.
Cheers!
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